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Vallée d'Ustou The Valley of Ustou in the Hautes Causterans, Ariege – this is the Pyrenees in all their splendour.

For long stretches of history this country and this valley in particular knew real misery: isolated by the mountains and suffering numerous torments through frontier wars and the demands of central government. The system of agriculture-forestry-grazing that they used for centuries provided for better or worse a living that was tough and close to the natural elements. Industrialisation and the wars of the past century have emptied the countryside and killed off the old way of life. Ustou has not escaped this destiny, but its situation has above all allowed it to avoid modernisation. Though some may regret this, it has at least allowed the preservation of the wild nature of the valley as a precious area of savage beauty and Chateau de Lagardecomplex biodiversity. You will often still find the endemic imprint of the former way of life, rich in simple but fundamental values.

Fromager d'Ustou Here life is lived to another rhythm, that of nature which is still the only owner of the region, with its intense, extreme moments interspersed with episodes of serenity and even weariness. Here life has not been made “aseptic”; the people and the mountains are tough and beautiful. To achieve harmony, a sense of responsibility for oneself and for the environment is essential. Animals and plants are wild and have to struggle and adapt to survive.

“Ariege, brave land” is what the slogan used to say, now re-written for fear of bad publicity but the truth was in those words. There are many outdoor activities which can be enjoyed by all ages according to capabilities to taste the benefits. The weather is changeable whether conditions are sunny or Gypaète Barbu  (envergure 3m)rainy; beauty is everywhere but may appear in the form of a thorn bush or as a harsh winter’s day. Of course you are probably only here for a week or two and want to go away with the most positive impression, which I will work towards, but this doesn’t prevent you from gaining much more from soaking your feet in the torrent after walking for hours to get there.

If you click here you will get more detailed information about the valley, its history, flora and fauna as well as a bit about the geological history. These passages are drawn from my memory of guided tours, and can be read before your visit along with other works on the area and its nature. They are not yet available in English, but if the demand is there we can work on this.

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